Has the red Burgundy bug bit you yet? If not, drink more Pinot Noir from its home in France to become acquainted. If you aren’t immediately hooked, keep exploring Burgundian wines until you are overwhelmed with twitterpation. You’ll know when you’ve arrived.
The family owned Albert Bichot was established in 1831 and today owns vineyards from Chablis to Beaujolais and manages six estates that produce some of the best Burgundian wines. Now that we have this tidbit of history straight, put on your seatbelt for the rest.
This wine was made from Bichot’s Domaine du Pavillon, located in the Pommard commune in the Côte de Beaune. Pinot Noir grapes were sourced from all five climats of the Les Santenots vineyard, located in the commune of Meursault to the south. But the label states Volnay! That’s right; you guessed it. The Santenots vineyard is an anomaly in Burgundian appellation laws. Per the regulations in place, Volnay was given the privilege to use the best five Meursault Premier Cru vineyards, labelled and sold as Volnay Santenots if red and Meursault-Santenots if white. The reason was jet fueled by marketing, as Volnay is really known for its reds and Meursault for its whites. Well, this clears (mucks) it up. Got it? Welcome to the confusing world of appellation laws of the Old World.
This 2016 Domaine du Pavillon Les Santenots Volnay Premier Cru opened with primary aromas and flavors of red plum, red cherry, cranberry, tart red apples, black tea, and a lift of spearmint. Secondary notes included clove, nutmeg, and tobacco smoke. Tertiary notes unfolded to autumn leaves, cinnamon, and raspberry preserves. This wine was dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium aroma and flavor intensity, medium body, and medium tannins. The finish was also medium. With so many “mediums,” this wine was reserved and tight, requiring at least five more years of silent cellaring before making its debut. It just wasn’t ready to show all of its intended glory today but will explode out of the glass for those who can wait.
