If you know me well, I am a lover of Burgundies. So, when given the opportunity to taste one of Lalou Bize-Leroy’s entry-level wines, my heart skipped a beat with revered anticipation.
As one of the most prestigious and famous Burgundian producers, Domaine Leroy is a négociant that also owns 21 hectares of estate vineyards located in Vosne-Romanée and Gevrey-Chambertin. It produces a range of wines from some of the most iconic vineyards of the world, sourcing its Grand Cru grapes from Richebourg, Le Chambertin, Romanée-Saint-Vivant, and Clos de Vougeot, to name a few. Domaine Leroy is arguably second only to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) in terms of price, quality, and esteemed reputation. To put this in perspective for those new to Domaine Leroy, the average bottle price across all vintages of the Chambertin Grand Cru is nearly $8,000, with the 2015 vintage selling for almost $11,000 (prices quoted by Wine Searcher).
Founded in 1868 by wine merchant Francois Leroy in Auxey-Duresses, Maison Leroy expanded under his son Joseph and grandson Henri throughout the 1900s. In 1942, Henri Leroy and Edmond Gaudin purchased DRC together. Fast forward to 1974, Henri’s daughter Lalou co-managed DRC and also inherited Maison Leroy after her father’s death in 1980. Ousted by other DRC shareholders in 1992, largely because she started Domaine Leroy in 1988 that was in competition with DRC, Lalou continued to expand her enterprise through the acquisition of prized vineyards.
From the very beginning, Lalou practiced biodynamic viticulture, even before it became more mainstream in Burgundy and around the world. Famous for being among the first winegrowers to use horses to plough the vines, she practices severe pruning and crop-thinning, producing ridiculously low yields. This explains the supreme concentration of Leroy wines, as vines put all their energy into just a few grape clusters, giving more to less.
Now in her mid-eighties, Lalou is still going strong, living for her vines and nothing else.
The 2017 Domaine Leroy Bourgogne Blanc is Lalou’s entry-level wine made of 100% Chardonnay that will still cost you an average retail price of over $90. And yes, this wine was impressive, making me wish I had the exorbitant cash to purchase a Domaine Leroy Grand Cru bottle. This wine opened with primary aromas and flavors of honeydew melon, apricot, honeysuckle, a zip of pineapple, river rock, and salt. Secondary notes included a drop of melted butter and a nuance of vanilla. Tertiary notes unfolded to honey and hay. This wine was dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) aroma and flavor intensity, and medium (+) body. The finish was medium (+). Simply stated, this white Burgundy was gracefully elegant. Each note stood on its own yet blended masterfully to create the full experience of this wine, upon first sip until the finish waned away.
As Lalou states, “Wine is inspired from the cosmos; it tastes of the world itself.” “Once one knows how to taste wine, one no longer simply tastes wine but its profound secrets.” Perfectly stated, as it reflects the tasting experience of Domaine Leroy wines.
