If you dig Barolo, give it up for the Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie.
The Massimiliano Calabretta winery is located in Randazzo, on the north side of Mount Etna of Sicily. Its vineyard holdings include incredibly old vines (vigne vecchie) throughout Etna’s subzones, with many over 80 years of age and on original rootstocks.
Calabretta has distinguished itself, as it produces Nebbiolo-like wines made from Nerello Mascalese. Diverting from the modern style of wine made by most Sicilian producers, Calabretta wines reflect a time-honored style very similar to the stalwarts of traditional Barolo production. Accordingly, wines are aged in large neutral Slavonian oak botti and subsequently matured for several years in bottle before release.
The 2010 and 2007 Calabretta Vigne Vecchie were made of hand-harvested Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. Although grapes were sourced from a seven-hectare vineyard within the delimited Etna Rosso DOC, both wines were declassified to the IGT level. Apparently in the past, the Etna appellation board would sometimes reject one or two botti, claiming the wine was not “typical Etna Rosso.” Rather than being forced to declassify its wine, even when it met its own standards, Calabretta took a stand by bottling all of its wines as IGT. This way, Calabretta has more freedom to make its own decisions and produce the flavor profile and style of wine desired.
It was interesting to experience how the Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie evolved with additional bottle age. The 2010 vintage opened with primary aromas and flavors of baked red cherries, blood orange, bruised rose petals, black pepper, and balsam. Secondary notes were very subtle with hints of vanilla and clove. Tertiary notes were well balanced and unfolded to cherry jelly, a few drops of caramel, and wet volcanic ash.
In contrast, the 2007 vintage was dominated by tertiary notes as I would expect from an older wine. Primary aromas and flavors included red cherry, ripe cranberry, bruised rose petals, blood orange, juniper, and black pepper. Secondary notes were faded with hints of vanilla. Tertiary aromas and flavors rose to the forefront, with notes of portabella mushroom, volcanic forest floor, tar, savory herbs, dried cherry, cinnamon, and honey. Close to its peak, I would not recommend holding this wine any further, as its freshness is starting to wane.
The structure of the 2010 and 2007 vintages was the same for both wines, with medium (+) acidity, high alcohol, medium (+) aroma and flavor intensity, medium body, medium (+) tannins, and medium (+) finish.
Saluti! This Sicilian Barolo deserves a high five.
