It was a hoot to meet Jeff Emery of the Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard winery. He is the proprietor and winemaker, and the self-proclaimed truck driver, mechanic, wine sales dude, and jack of all trades, vine to table. And what a stellar line-up of wines he brought for us to taste! It was nearly impossible to determine our top picks—a good problem to have.
Out of the gate, this winery captured my interest and intrigue, as each wine was simply solid and delivered delight. Wines walked the tightrope perfectly, balancing pure fruit flavors with just the right amount of oak influence with restrained and lower alcohol levels. There was no cherry cola to be found in the Pinot Noir wines we tasted. And none of Jeff’s wines were fruit-bombs, which is saying something, especially for sunny-hot California. As Jeff frankly stated it, “Jam is for toast, not for wine.” Bingo.
Two of my best-loved wines included the 2014 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Petite Sirah and the 2013 Quinta Cruz Tempranillo. The single vineyard Pinot Noirs were killer too, not to mention the Grenache Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon.
The 2014 Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Petite Sirah was made from grapes sourced from the Pierce Ranch Vineyard, located in the San Antonio AVA in southwestern Monterey County. 100% whole cluster fermentation was carried out with both wild and inoculated yeasts. Final wines were then aged in French, Hungarian, and American oak and bottled without fining for filtration.
This Petite Sirah opened with primary aromas and flavors of black plum, crushed strawberry, black tea, juniper berry, and cracked black peppercorn. Secondary notes included vanilla and clove. Tertiary notes unfolded to fresh dirt and marionberry cobbler. This wine was dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) aroma and flavor intensity, medium body, and medium (+) tannins. The finish was medium (+).
As an esoteric knowledge sidebar, Petite Sirah is known as Durif most everywhere outside of the United States. Originally from France, this variety was created when François Durif propagated it from a cross of Peloursin and Syrah in the 1880s. And there you go!
In contrast, the 2013 Quinta Cruz was made from Tempranillo grapes, also sourced from the Pierce Ranch Vineyard in the San Antonio Valley. This wine opened with primary aromas and flavors of red plum, wild strawberry, rose, a drizzle of sweet and sour sauce, and black pepper. Secondary notes included a touch of anise, vanilla, and roasted coffee bean. Tertiary notes included red cherry cobbler mixed with tobacco. This wine was dry, with medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) aroma and flavor intensity, medium body, and medium tannins. The finish was also medium (+). In 2008, the Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard winery launched a second brand called Quinta Cruz, featuring only varieties that originated from the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal), Tempranillo being one such cultivar.
Sound advice: skip the jam in your glass tonight and spread it on your toast in the morning.
